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Newsletter 1998 - a Mokoro (dugout canoe) trip

My son and I set off on a mokoro (dugout canoe) trip of 16 days with a faithful client of many years. With four mokoros laden to the gunnels we set out early after breakfast.

"We poled our way through such beautiful green glades along the river's edge, quietly disturbing the grazing wildebeest, zebra and countless other game. As we were catching the tail end of the floods on this normally dry river bed, we occasionally ran aground in some of the channels and had to do a fair amount of walking in ankle deep water to find a stronger current, indicating the source of the channel. The terrain varied from channels through reed beds to open floodplains, from deep quiet lagoons to open stretches of flower laden waters. Buffalo grazed chest deep in the river ahead of us, while we paddled quietly up to them for closer viewing. Our polers would crouch down and sit on the end of the mokoro as we drifted closer and closer. Never before had they been so close to these beasts!!

We had some close shaves with hippos who were a constant threat to our mokoro convoy.! From curiosity to feeling threatened in a narrow channels, they would pop up in front of us, or follow us at great speed. On one occasion, my poler couldn't bear the consequences as a big bull hippo made a lunge at us, with its mouth wide open. He jumped out and was starting to run for shallower water. Grant screamed at him while at the same time, throwing a palm ball (seed of the palm tree) at the hippo's head, giving us time to get the poler back into the mokoro and vacate the area forthwith.! It was quite amazing though, as this particular poler had never shown any anxiety or change in gait, while passing other hippo. It was just too close for comfort, I think!

Love to you all
Daphne

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